ELCOME TO COOKTOWN AND
LOWER CAPE YORK PENINSULA

Cooktown is a great many things: it is one of Australia's most historically significant townships; it is the gateway to where Cape York's wilderness blends Queensland's tropics into the cutback; and it is also the closest Australian town to the Great Barrier Reef which sits only eight miles off shore. But above all, Cooktown is one of Australia's best kept holiday secrets.

Cooktown overlooks the mouth of the Endeavour River where in 1770 Captain Cook brought his damaged ship, H.M.Bark Endeavour, for repairs. Encouraged by the hospitality of the local Guugu Yimithirr tribe and the area's beautiful climate and scenery, Cook extended his stay to a total of forty eight days to allow the Endeavour's crew to rest up for the trip back to England - a decision which marked the Cooktown region's debut as a holiday spot.

Since Cook's historic visit, a great many others have also succumbed to the charm and tranquility of Cooktown's very unique surroundings. The most noticeable difference today is only that the environs of the Endeavour River now offer visitors even more than when the good captain and his crew decided to kick back and take in the sights more than two hundred years ago. Travellers to Cooktown in the 2000 are able to choose from a range of accommodation, restaurants, pubs plus a host of tours and recreational pursuits guaranteed to thrill and intrigue.

Every day spent in Cooktown is an opportunity to spend your time either actively seeking out the region's secrets or simply enjoying the untouched beauty of Cooktown's enchanting tropical beaches and forests.

Explore the legendary Black Mountains or land a monster Barramundi on the jetty. Perhaps you would prefer to dive on one of the reef's many yet to be visited bommies before then taking off with a local ranger to see Aboriginal rock paintings pre-dating Europe's Renaissance. All of this and more is there for the asking in Cooktown for those who make the trip north of Cairns to discover one of Australia's last frontiers.
Getting to Cooktown by road from Cairns is half the fun as both the coastal and inland roads provide glimpses of an Australia most people have never imagined. The four wheel drive trek along the famous Bloomfield Track takes you past the fabulous world heritage forests of the Daintree and offers remarkable coastal views while the inland drive provides an introduction to the great Australian outback and a way of life which has remained unchanged for decades. For those with a schedule to keep, the thirty five minute flight from Cairns International tracks the coastline and presents magnificent aerial views of the reef and rainforest.

So what are you waiting for? Treat yourself to something new and different and become one of the growing number of people who have discovered Australia's best kept secret.

HISTORY

The south bank of the Endeavour River where Cooktown now stands is the starting point of European involvement in Australia. The river's lush tropical environs bear witness to both the excitement and tragedy which has shaped the modern history of Far North Queensland. Indeed, Cooktown has soared to dizzying heights and plummeted to almost total obscurity: a town with a past as rich and diverse as the environment in which it stands.

In the late nineteenth century Cooktown thrived during the heady and often wild days of the Palmer River goldrush as one Australia's biggest and most important centres with a population more than 35 000. But when the Palmer River's gold began to run out in the early 1900's, miners and the business left Cooktown to follow rumours of strikes further south. By the 1930's, the "Queen of the North" was almost dead and its fast shrinking community soon became even smaller when the town's civilian
population was evacuated during the Second World War. Some residents returned after the war but hopes of a new lease of life for Cooktown were dashed when in 1949 a cyclone destroyed most of the town's buildings - Cooktown's total demise seemed, at the time, a certainty.

But this unique town has always managed to survive ... so much so that Cooktown is now undergoing a long awaited renaissance as increasing numbers of people discover why locals regard their tropical home one of Australia's best kept secrets. The aboriginal people have long appreciated what life in the Far can offer but the first outsider to share in the magic of the region's seductive spell was none other than Captain James Cook of His Majesty's Royal Navy. For Captain Cook, the river he named after his ship - the HMS Bark Endeavor - was a godsend. The Endeavour, slowly sinking after hitting part of the Great Barrier Reef, almost did not make it back to England after it's historic journey to Botany Bay and was saved only by the sanctuary of the Endeavour River's shores. Cook's ship limped into the river in 1770 where the crew immediately set about repairing the Endeavour's badly damaged hull. Cook and his crew were so enchanted by the exotic flora and fauna (it was here that Europeans saw their first Kangaroo) and the ways of the Guugu Yimithirr people that Cook decided to stay for nearly two months - such is the allure of Queensland's tropical north.

But unlike Captain Cook, visitors to Cooktown today have a wide choice of accommodation
options which cover everything from spacious air-conditioned hotel rooms to backpacker hostels and camping facilities. A number of excellent restaurants operate in Cooktown and provide the perfect environment to enjoy the Far North's balmy evenings. All kinds of tropical fare, including local seafood and many other epicurean delights, can be sampled in the relaxed atmosphere of Cooktown's restaurant scene: an ideal environment in which to plan the adventure that lies ahead.

Cooktown's bays are pristine stretches of golden sand set against a backdrop of palm trees and forests. The ocean's clear waters make the urge to dive in irresistible. Cherry Tree Bay and Finch Bay are two of Cooktown's most beautiful locations and can be found at the end of walking tracks which begin from Cooktown's renowned botanical gardens. The Cooktown Botanical Gardens stretch over 3 hectares and were established in 1878: making Cooktown's collection of native and exotic trees one of the oldest in Queensland.

During Cooktown's heyday in the 1880's and 90's, a thousand or more people would gather in the gardens on a Sunday to listen to bands, socialise and picnic. Over the last sixteen years, the gardens have been restored and still include many of the original trees including exotic species from Asia and the Himalayas. The gardens and the walks to the beaches are simply too beautiful to miss and guided tours by a local Botanist are regularly held. Visitors can also join bushwalking tours which include one and three day walks around the area.

Once in Cooktown, a wide variety of exciting activities and voyages of discovery are there for the asking. Scenic air and coach tours are available to take in the sights and for those who want to do things at their own pace, four wheel drive car hire is easily arranged. Aboriginal rangers from the local tribes conduct informative tours of important Aboriginal sites while visitors with a taste for adventure can set sail for diving and game fishing trips to the reef - only an hour off shore.

While in town, visit the James Cook Historical Museum or join a river cruise for some crocodile spotting along the Endeavour River. Maybe you would prefer to casually walk around and check out Cooktown's many historical sites including Cook's landing site on the Endeavour River, the old lighthouse on Grassy Hill and the Cooktown cemetery: the final place of resting for many of the region's most famous identities and pioneers.

GREAT BARRIER REEF

Cooktown is the closest Australian town to the Great Barrier Reef. It is also the closest port to the famous ribbon reefs and world famous Lizard Island. The reefs off Cooktown are simply "the best" along the North Queensland coast with good water visibility at all times due to the pristine coastline in this region remaining as it was in 1770 when Captain Cook visited here.

Whatever you have seen of the reef in books or films, nothing will prepare you for the reality. The Outer Barrier Reef is only forty minutes travelling time from Cooktown by high speed boat or you can fly by seaplane over the myriad coral cays, reefs, islets and beaches. There will never be a better place to learn to snorkel or scuba dive. Reef operators provide snorkelling and diving gear and instructors cater for experienced and learner divers.

If you've never dived before, and would like to experience first hand the magic of scuba, cruise operators offer introductory dives with highly qualified dive instructors. All you need to do is pass the on board medical questionnaire and participate in a dive briefing enroute to the Great Barrier Reef. The worlds largest reef is here for you to explore, home to over 1500 species of fish and over 400 species of coral, making it the most diverse ecosystem in the world. The most noticible difference between reefs here and reefs off Cairns and Port Douglas is the amount of large mature fish always visible.

Lizard Island, fifty nautical miles, north east of Cooktown is regarded as the "jewel of the reef' and a popular destination of the "rich and famous". A short flight from Cooktown (30 minutes) to Lizard Island and you too can have a rare and remarkable experience. Flights depart daily in tourist season for a minimum of two persons. Enjoy snorkelling over the clam gardens in Mrs. Watsons Bay, the fringing reefs of the Blue Lagoon or explore and relax on one of the 24 white sandy beaches. Camping is permitted on Lizard Island National Park, fees are $3 per person per night. Reef and islands a magical experience from Cooktown!

FISHING

The fishing in Cooktown is among the best in the world. Few locations offer the variety of fish found in the Endeavour River and the nearby Great Barrier Reef. Anglers can charter boats for game and bottom fishing on the reef - only a twenty minute trip off shore - or join a sport fishing safari and head down the Endeavour to take advantage of the river's large stocks of Barramundi and Mangrove Jack.

Yet another option is to visit nearby Lizard Island for the day and sample the island's world famous fishing in waters so clear you can actually see the fish taking your bait. Because you are on the outer edge of the reef, anything can ... and probably will happen - so be prepared for some big catches!

One of the truly unique features of fishing in Cooktown is the large Spanish Mackerel (up to thirty
or forty pounds), Barra, Queenfish, and Mangrove Jack which can be caught by only walking out to the jetty an. throwing in a line. If you don't feel like hiring a boat, you still have an excellent chance of making a major catch only a short walk from your hotel.

If you need some local knowledge, there are plenty of Cooktown anglers who will happily point you in the right direction for rigs, lures and bait. And as on Lizard Island, the water visibility around the jetty is excellent - allowing regular sightings of the huge gropers which often swim close to shore.

The lack of farming and the plentiful mangroves around the Endeavour River are two factors which have combined to make Cooktown a place where you are almost guaranteed to catch fish. The Endeavour and nearby Annan rivers were restocked this with more than 30,000 and 15,000 Barramundi and Mangrove Jack respectively: leaving little chance of coming away empty-handed.

The most important thing to keep in mind when casting a line in Cooktown is the timing of your fishing adventure. The best time is between August and February with peak of the season being in November and December but some species, such as Trevally and Queenfish, can be caught all year round.

BLACK MOUNTAINS

Cooktown is the northern gateway to the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, 900,000 hectares of forest along the north Queensland coast. The Wet Tropics was recognised as a World Heritage Area in 1988, providing international protection for one of the world's finest natural sites.

Visitors to the Wet Tropics are inspired by its sweeping vistas. Mountains shrouded in clouds tower over the coast. Streams form high on the rainforest-covered slopes & wind their way through spectacular gorges down to the coastal plain and the sea. These are some of the features which make the World Heritage Area one of exceptional natural beauty.

The Cooktown area has its share of outstanding natural features. One of the most intriguing is Black Mountain, about 30km south of Cooktown on the Peninsula Development Road. These giant piles of black granite boulders have been the subject of Aboriginal legends & European stories for many years. Highly specialised animals & plants live among the lichen-covered granite boulders. Some species, like the Black Mountain Frog, are found nowhere else in the world.

The Wet Tropics Management Authority was set up to care for the World Heritage Area & meet Australia's obligations to protect the area's natural values for future generations. You can help when visiting the Area by driving carefully, keeping to the roads & walking tracks, & leaving dogs & cats at home.

LAURA AND LAKEFIELD NATIONAL PARK
One of the world�s largest and most impressive displays of primitive rock art can be found south from Lakefield National Park. The area surrounding the township of Laura is known as Quinkan country: a place ehere ancient rock paintings and forests combine to create a window into the lives of the Aboriginal hunters and gatherers who have populated the landscape for centuries.

The rock paintings were discovered by internationally renowned artist and author Percy Trezise in 1959 and the paintings have since come to be recognised as one of the world�s most significant archeological finds. Some of the colourful ochre paintings and images date back thousands of years and are now the subject of Percy Trezise�s much sought after Rock Art Mythology series of books and paintings.

Laura is rich in the age old ways of Australia�s Aboriginal people and the community has done a great deal to maintain the area�s rich cultural heritage. The Cape York Aboriginal Dance Festival is held in Laura every two years by the Ang-Gnarra Aboriginal Corporation and is an event not missed. For two days, Cape York�s Aboriginal communities combine resources to put on a unique display of traditional Aboriginal dancing, skills and sports at a venue long held sacred by local indigenous Australians.

Another of Laura�s highlights is the annual Horse Races and Rodeo which are held on the first weekend of July. The event is a wonderful example of Australia�s outback way of life and gives visitors the chance to meet many of the friendly and very colourful characters who live and work in and around Laura. It is a weekend which guarantees a piece of what good times in the Far North�s outback are all about!

LAKEFIELD NATIONAL PARK
A little over eighty kilometres to the north-west of Cooktown lies Lakefield National Park --- Queensland�s second largest flora and fauna reserve. Lakefield stretches over 537,000 hectares and contains a measure of diversity which, quite simply, must be seen to be believed.

The very pleasant drive to Lakefield from Cooktown affords travellers some outstanding views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the nearby ranges where virgin rainforest surrounds the road for a good deal of the way: a small taste of what is yet to come at Lakefield. There are a number of beautiful spots to stop off along the way with perhaps the most attractive being Isabella Falls where crystal clear waters invite some time spent swimming and relaxing.

Lakefield is a camper�s paradise and its environs contain a multitude of wildlife habitats: extensive grass and woodlands, rainforests, sandstone escarpments and a huge network of waterways. Local wildlife consists of over one hundred and eighty species of bird life including the Golden Shouldered Parrot and eighteen identified species of mammal. This unrivalled level of diversity provides visitors with a unique opportunity to observe and photograph Far Northern Australia�s unique array of wildlife while enjoying a taste of camping in the great outdoors.

The large number of rivers and waterholes in the park has made Lakefield home to an incredible rich variety of marine life and the good news is that fishing is permitted (the only national park to do so) in designated areas, allowing anglers to take advantage of the park�s stocks of rifle fish, mangrove jack and much sought after barramundi.

GETTING THERE IS HALF THE FUN!

Getting to Cooktown is certainly half the fun and those who take the option of travelling by road can expect to see some of the Far North's most stunning countryside and ocean views. Tropical Queensland is known as a place of exotic beauty where the rainforests meet the ocean and the Bloomfield Track between Cooktown and Cairns is a superb example of why the Far North enjoys this reputation. The inland road is an alternative offering equally magnificent views of the region's cutback and a chance to experience some of the country encountered by the region's pioneers during treks to the famed Palmer River goldfields.

The Rainforest Coast

While the inland road is mostly seated and suitable for standard vehicles, the unsealed Bloomfield Track's winding push through lush rainforest and picturesque waterways make it considerably more adventurous as it is passable only to four wheel drives. The coastal road was opened in 1984 and is, for many, the preferred route to Cooktown. Indeed, there are few drives in the world which could match the tropical splendour on display in the dense forests of the Daintree and Cedar Bay National Parks.

Daintree National Park takes up the lion's share of the road to Cooktown and provides travellers with many opportunities to catch a glimpse of the flora and fauna that has made the park internationally famous. There are also many beaches where it is possible to stop off and take a swim in warm clear waters or simply enjoy the ocean's magnificent rainforest backdrop.

Cape Tribulation lies at the heart the Daintree and is a well known camping area attracting visitors from all over Australia and the world. Between the Daintree and Cedar Bay, approximately forty kilometres north of Cape Tribulation, the Bloomfield Beach camping grounds also offer a very pleasant break from the rigors of four wheel driving before then pressing on for final sixty or so kilometres to Cooktown.

After driving through Cedar Bay�s rich rainforests, there still remain a couple of ,'must stop and visit" places on the itinerary. just outside of the small township of Helensvale is the truly unique Lion's Den Hotel which was built in 1878. The hotel's rustic atmosphere and excellent camping facilities make the Lion's Den a choice place to stop off for a cold beer or two. A little further on are the mysterious Black Mountains which lie at the meeting point of the coastal and inland roads. The Black Mountains are huge mounds of black granite boulders made even more conspicuous by an almost total absence of vegetation. The "Mountains of Death", as they are known by the local Aboriginal people, are shrouded in the mystery of Dreamtime legend and still withhold the fates of the many who have disappeared without trace in the mountains' labyrinth of tunnels and caves.

The Inland Road

The inland road, also known as Cooktown Development Road, is rich in the history of Australia's indigenous people European settlers who tried vainly to conquer the interior's wild and primitive environment. The inland route is dotted with examples of past efforts to extract the area's mineral wealth and many of the small communities found along the way to Cooktown stand as testament to the region's pioneering history.

The tiny townships of Mount Molloy and Mount Carbine are reminders of Far North Queensland's once abundant copper and wolfram deposits and are situated only a hundred kilometres to the south of the entrance to perhaps the most famous and adventurous of all of the Far North�s mining endeavours: The Palmer River Goldfields.

Gold was first found in the Palmer River area in 1872 and within two years more than 15,000 gold hungry miners had converged on what was once a land populated only by the local Aboriginal people. As the finds increased, so did the clashes between min the region's traditional caretakers: a situation which finally led to the Aborigines being driven out by superior European weapons and numbers. Efforts to mine the Palmer River fields still continue today and visitors can try their hand panning for gold on the Palmer or simply view the many surviving relics of the region's gold rush days.

Further north from the entrance to the goldfields is the Palmer River Roadhouse which is
licensed and has, since the reopening of the goldfields in 1980, become the supply and recreation centre for the local miners. The roadhouse's great atmosphere and hospitality has made it something of a landmark along road to Cooktown and is a great place to enjoy cold beer.

The last town before Cooktown is the tiny community of Lakeland which, like many townships in the area, sprung up in response to the local goldrush. Lakeland is best known for Butcher's Hill Station where horses were bred for the Indian army at the end of the last century. Nowadays Lakeland is a
major peanut growing region with a Hotel, Motel and Caravan Park.

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